Stage 13: Pitlochry to Inverness
Mouth of the River Ness
Distance: 98.44 miles
Climb: 4,255 feet
A long day in the saddle awaits, with the first 25 miles generally upward but thankfully followed by 20 miles of down.
We wend our way along the western edges of the Cairngorm National Park, the Glenmore and Abernethy National Nature Reserves, through Aviemore's ski resort and on to Inverness.
Fun Fact: Inverness is regarded as the capital of the Highlands, famous for the Battle of Culloden and Starz hit show Outlander.
In a slight change to our usual start routine, we began the day listening to Episode 21 (Day 11: New mates make the miles easier) of Ado and Pete's entertaining podcast, Pushing It Uphill. Thanks for the mention: great day riding with you guys. Hopefully see you again en route.
Post-ride Debrief
A day of two redheads – but more of that later.
Our progress up Scotland, a deceptively long country, continued…helped by gentle climbing and favourable winds (too many carbs?).
A long ride today which necessitated an earlier start and two stops enabling the support crew to continue collecting Tiso loyalty points as well as making a flying visit to the House of Bruar.
Leaving Pitlochry we were keen to progress into the heart of the Highlands. First we passed through Killiecrankie, which if you say it right sounds like a difficult choice!
Soon the beginning of the 20-mile incline to the Dromochter Summit was reached, with a sign which can be paraphrased as “abandon hope all ye who enter”. In reality it was all rather pleasant with traffic bombing along the A9 well away from us.
At this point a note for Derbyshire, Yorkshire and Lancashire – you can get up to a 1500-feet summit without building vertical roads.
With the Cairngorms majestically dominating our views, we were surrounded by stunning natural beauty. Paul got very excited by an off-road gravel path that looked like a cruel and unnatural punishment to Richard.
Our first very pleasant coffee stop at the Apiary café in Dalwhinnie was followed within two miles by Paul taking back the lead in the puncture league. Tube changed with minimal fuss we were soon underway again accompanied by a soaring eagle tracking our path. Richard promised to hold onto Paul’s ankles if the predator swooped.
Lots of nature in the ride today. After seeing many signs referencing their presence, we actually saw a red squirrel. It was just sitting on the side of the road without a care in the world. Reader note that this is an assumption: for all we know the russet-haired mammal may have been in bits about the constant menace posed by its grey cousin.
Some while later we spotted another hairy redhead. On closer inspection it turned out to be a naked rambler – yes really😧. With little to cover his modesty other than a very scanty running belt, we saw the fullest moon of the whole trip. And no, we didn't take photos. Potholes are one thing, but actual cracks in the road are quite another!
From naturism back to nature. We tried our hand at the great new sport of hill-climbing bird-spotting. A pair of Ospreys hung above us as we pedalled up a short hill craning our necks to follow their path. Fortunately no oncoming traffic. Later in the evening, Paul was lucky enough to see an Osprey dip down to pluck its fish supper from the waters of Beauly Firth.
Making a detour into the centre of Inverness we met up with Alison and Graham who had driven four hours to see us. Again, the power of friendship.
With another 98 miles done and dusted we are rewarding ourselves with a cheeky rest day before our final two stages.
See you for Stage 14 on Thursday – à bientôt.
A reminder of why we're doing this. Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Care provides FREE services and support to ensure patients and families living with an advanced or terminal illness can make the most of their lives…because every day is precious!
Each penny or cent pledged is donated to the hospice to help fund the very best in end-of-life care. See our JustGiving page.
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